“Bandit” – Available to a Performance or Companion Home
If you’ve considered adding a companion or performance borzoi to your life, have a look at THIS adorable little face – you’ll never see another one quite like it!
On August 4th 2017, Seamus x Melody had a litter of gorgeous, sweet and healthy borzoi puppies.
Like all the dogs born here at Aria, puppies from this 2017 “Van Morrison” litter begin life with all the advantages we can give them. Intensive pedigree research, as well as temperament testing and health screenings are all crucial parts of our breeding program, and all our litters receive the “SuperDog” puppy development exercises used by the US Army. You can read about the exercises in an upcoming blog post we have planned soon.
We strive to breed borzoi that excel in their lives, whether that be in the show ring, the field, as a beloved family pet, or (as most of our dogs) some combination of all of the above!
Bandit shows a lot of potential as a performance dog, plus a LOT of personality – she’d make a great companion, as well. To inquire, check out our puppy adoption questionnaire, here —> LINK TO QUESTIONNAIRE
On July 15, 2015, Lancelot x Bridget had a litter of borzoi puppies. The “Irish Airs” litter will be the subjects of a series of posts about early puppy development here at Aria. Watch them grow up and learn how you can use puppyhood experiences to help build confident, resourceful adult dogs that handle stressors well and are emotionally solid in a wide variety of situations.
Something magical starts happening around the first month of a puppy’s life – Individualism! Once their eyes are fully open and they’ve had a little practice moving around on purpose, suddenly, they start to realize that they are a unique entity and can affect the world around them. This is the beginning of personality, and the seeds of the dog they will become.
They learn their first lessons about touch, texture, bite inhibition and so much more while they’re bumbling about at this age, simply being adorable. It may not look like much to our eyes, but their little brains and bodies are working overtime to grow and learn.
It’s an exciting time to be a puppy! Yay for individualization!
Most people raising a litter of puppies did NOT get decide to do so because they were just dying to do paperwork – but, sadly, you do need to take some time away from the rewarding work and do the boring work too. Here are a few guidelines on some of the things you’ll need, paperwork wise, for an AKC registered litter here in the United States.
Pay the Stud Fee.
Register the Litter Online (for natural breedings with no lease agreement)
Register the Litter by Mail (for all other breeding situations)
If you are registering the litter by mail, you will need to send a self-addressed envelope with a check made out to the AKC and the Stud Fee to the stud owner and/or any other co-owners.
Schedule Important Evaluations and Events
Puppy Walk (you may want to send out “save the date” invitations for any puppy parties/events you have planned – get that on the calendar too!)
Testing and Health Appointments
First Well-Puppy Exams
Schedule Eye Exam
Schedule Heart Exam
Schedule Vaccinations at appropriate times
…and don’t forget to schedule any other breed-specific testing, screening or registry you wish to participate in.
Going-Home Preparation Shopping List
Microchipping Service (AKC Reunite, Avid, HomeAgain)
Adult Dog Kibble (for use as training treats)
Tubes of Bravo, ProBalance, or other supplementation
Notebooks, Binders, Sheet Protectors for your Going Home Books
Any Whistles, Lanyards, or Clickers
Going Home Books
Many breeders like to send their pups home with their new families complete with a “Going Home” Book. Part Baby-Book, part contract keeper, and part owner’s manual, a Going Home book is a customized reference you can put together for each family, customized for each puppy they’re bringing home. It can include candid puppy photos, copies of your contract/purchase agreements, all of your health records, testing, microchip information as well as any handouts you’d like to provide on the pup’s pedigree, color photos of the proud parents, and anything else that could come in handy. In addition to being handy to have, this can end up being a treasured keepsake, and a place where they store ALL their dog’s records, in time. Here’s what you can do to prepare a good, useful Going Home book to send along with your puppy:
Order a pedigree
Have your puppy contracts and warranties in order
Fill out a good medical history
Share your ongoing notes on your puppy’s temperament testing and training
Print out good color photos of both the sire and the dam to share
Have a health certificate and any other travelling papers in order
A structural evaluation
A pamphlet or some information on the breed
What You Should Provide To New Owners
Puppy Book, including all of the above
Leash and Collar
Whistles/Lanyards/Clicker – Training Basics
A Familiar Toy
Be sure to register the puppy with the AKC and activate their microchip when the buyer is there, provide all the health records and a copy of their contract and warranty. They’ll want to look to you for guidance in the months to come, especially if they’re new to the breed, and will appreciate any details on their particular puppy that you care to share. Most people absolutely love getting candid puppy pictures!
Having all your paperwork in order, and some thoughtful extras helps ensure a smooth transition where everyone can relax and enjoy the happiness that comes along with knowing that another great dog went to another great home and will go on to lead a life where they are loved, appreciated and cared for. After all, you worked hard and went the extra mile to give them the best start you could – and now it’s time to savor the results!
The last couple days, we’ve been doing a series on Labor and Whelping. Today features three potential problems that may affect a nursing bitch post-delivery. Over the next few weeks, we will be doing a series of posts about early puppy care and development.
Sometimes everything can go great during delivery, but problems arise afterwards. Here are a few things to watch out for, as your bitch settles into caring for her brand new litter…
Mastitis: A condition when the bitch’s teats can become red, painful and swollen, making it difficult for her to nurse her puppies without discomfort. The symptoms can range from mild to severe, and some bitches can develop a fever and become lethargic. Warm compresses/hot packing can help alleviate the pain. The puppies should still be encouraged to nurse the affected nippes – it helps flush out the infected material and doesn’t harm them in the least.
Verdict: Not an emergency, but watch to see if it worsens. If it doesn’t clear up after a few days, or your bitch becomes lethargic, feverish, or snappish to her pups DO consult your vet.
Metritus: Usually occuring the first couple days after deliver, metritus is caused by trauma during delivery or a retained placenta. Metritus is a serious condition and should be seen by your vet sooner rather than later. Signs to watch out for include:
Loss of Appetite
Lack of Interest in Puppies
Foul Smelling Vaginal Discharge
Decreased Milk Production
Eclampsia: More common in small dogs and usually seen in the first three weeks of lactation, eclampsia is caused by a calcium deficiency, as the dam’s stores are depleted by the demands of nursing her litter. Oddly enough, regular calcium supplementation pre-pregnancy can predispose a bitch for this condition.
Early stages include:
No interest in her puppies.
As the condition progresses and becomes more serious, look for:
Inability to stand
Eclampsia is a serious medical emergency! Get your bitch to the vet immediately!
Most bitches are great mothers to their pups, and any sudden disinterest or lethargy is worth your attention. Paying attention to the dam and her needs is important to noticing an illness while it’s in it’s early stages, which can save money at the vet, not to mention lives.
Yesterday we featured the first part of Labor and Whelping, covering how to predict when labor will occur based on body temperature, the first stage of labor, a list of things to worry about during delivery that probably require veterinary attention, and another list of things that can seem troubling but are NOT emergencies. To visit that post, click HERE. Over the next few weeks, we will be doing a series of posts about early puppy care and development.
Stage 2 Labor = Hard Labor
When most people think of “labor” this is what they are thinking of. Heavy contractions, and the regular expulsion of puppies. For those who are new to the process, the expectation is puppy, placenta, puppy, placenta, etc. in regular intervals until the litter is entirely birthed. But it doesn’t always work out that way, and that’s ok.
Stage 2 Labor is when a puppy is being birthed, and Stage 3 is when a placenta is being expelled. They don’t always come in that order, or one after another. As we mentioned yesterday, sometimes a couple of puppies can come, then a couple of placentas and that’s fine.
Her water may have broken at some point before, but if it hasn’t, it will. Sometimes it can pass unnoticed. Start the clock with your bitch’s first hard contraction. Unlike the internal contractions in Stage 1 Labor, you’ll be able to see her abdominal and flank muscles ripple and she may let out a grunt. If hard contractions persist. If she’s having regular hard contractions, less than 5 minutes apart, and she hasn’t produced a puppy in an hour, call your vet. If she’s been having frequent hard contractions and still hasn’t produced a puppy after two hours, she should go in for an exam right away.
Most labor and deliveries go smoothly. Each puppy will be born one at a time, wrapped in a membrane. Some of these sacs may be intact, some will already be torn and open, but don’t worry too much. A puppy can live for a few minutes in his membrane before his mother has time to open it up and tend to him.
Encourage her to investigate her puppy and placenta. Her licking is rough, and it’s goal is to start the bonding process and distress the puppy enough that it starts protesting. It’s cries put those brand new lungs to good use! If she doesn’t tear the membrane and clean the puppy herself, you’ll have to. A rough towel and firm rubbing is a good substitute for her tongue bath and nosing around. Hold the pup head down to dry them off, listen to be sure their squalling is free of any raspiness and their lungs sound clear.
If the dam eats the placentas, it pushes the umbilical cord blood up into the puppy. – so let her, if she wants to, even though she might vomit them back up or have diarrhea from them later on. She may chew through the umbilical cord, or you can tear it yourself, clamping it off with a hemostat for a few minutes or tying with clean dental floss about a half inch away from the puppy to prevent bleeding.
Be watchful… this is a painful and occasionally confusing process, especially for a maiden bitch. Be sure she doesn’t bite you, or her newborn puppy, as she’s trying to figure out how to be a mother.
Other pups will come, usually within an hour and after 10-30 minutes of hard contractions for each. Some can come very close together. As long as your bitch is calm and not in distress, everything is probably just fine. Feel free to offer calcium-rich refreshments, like vanilla ice cream (which they usually love, AND it provides glucose for easy energy), Tums, cottage cheese, and yoghurt, as well as keeping water on hand. Without getting too technical, calcium aids her body with contractions. She can have up to 1000 mg of calcium between each puppy, and an additional 500-1000mg if she goes more than a half hour between puppies while still having contractions. Although your bitch might prefer the ice cream, the Tums are a handy way of keeping track of exactly how much she’s getting.
It’s not uncommon for a bitch to take a pause during the delivery of her litter to rest up and care for the pups she’s already had. This can be up to 4 hours with no ill effects.
Ideally, puppies should be nursing within 30 minutes of being born. You can continue to handle and rub weak or limp puppies with a towel, and when you set them down, put them down near a ready nipple. You can’t force them to nurse, but you can make a tunnel with their hand and kind of guide them along.
Milk Quality and Quantity
You may be surprised at first at how little milk your bitch seems to produce for her newborns, but don’t be. A brand new litter doesn’t require a lot in quantity, but what they ARE getting is crucial to their survival. Their mother’s first milk contains colostrum, which contains all her antibodies and sets their immune system up for success for the first few weeks of their lives. As more time passes and the puppies begin to grow, their dam’s milk quality will increase in richness, and her diet will need to reflect the extra demands milk production makes on her system. But, for the moment, the puppies will get what they need.
Stay tuned for tomorrow’s article on the aftercare of your new mother and potential problems for bitches, post-whelp.
Finally, it’s time! The puppies have all arrived. Melody has done a fine job cleaning them and letting them nurse for the first time as a litter while they all catch their breath. It’s a special moment, a pause before the serious business of life, growth and motherhood begins in earnest.
Individual pup pics and profiles are coming, including other puppy goodness from previous litters, and the inside scoop on how we use the neonatal experiences a puppy has to condition them to be successful in later life. Stay tuned!